MERCER BRUNCH TAIWAN

In the quietly unhurried streets of Minsheng,MERCER BRUNCH TAIWAN has a sense of luxury that never seems in a rush. The New York-style brunch rhythm brought over from Tokyo takes on a new form here: understated, yet refined.

Marble tabletops, metal lines and warm wood share a light-filled space with a little deliberately cultivated reserve. The small fireplace area at its center feels like an extension of home, while keeping the sense of occasion you expect from a restaurant.

The approach to food is simple: choose a main, then let those two slices of French toast become the part you remember.

● Hummus, Quinoa and Kale Salad

An unexpected highlight to start. The hummus has a fine grain, and olive oil and spices bring depth. The kale’s slight bitterness is softened into a wonderfully clean flavor.

● Roasted Chicken Thigh Salad with Orange Sauce

The chicken thigh has crisp skin and a moist interior, still releasing steam when cut open. A gentle touch of acidity from the orange sauce brings the finish from rich to refreshing. It is a main that never wears out your palate.

● Ibérico Tomahawk Pork Chop

The meat is surprisingly tender, with just the right balance of fat and juices. Caramelized onion butter adds sweetness and depth, rounding out the flavor. A substantial dish, but never cloying.

● Brioche French Toast

The soul of the place. There is almost no resistance as you bite; it melts away like pudding. Butter and egg flavors overlap beneath a lightly browned exterior and soft center. It is sweet enough as it is, but a drizzle of honey turns it into another, even more enticing version.

● Coffee

Clean in flavor and content to stay out of the spotlight, it holds the pace of the meal steady. A quietly present supporting character.

• The first overseas location of a popular Tokyo brunch brand
• Brioche French Toast is the undisputed centerpiece
• A refined setting for dates or a meal with a sense of occasion
• Prices are on the high side; reservations are needed